My first time surfing was at the age of fifteen. My parents let me use a board and a teen boy helped me stand up and push my way through the water. It was clumsy but fun. Fast forward ten years…
At the age of twenty-five I tried again. I started to go surfing on the weekends with my parents, eventually renting a surfboard for myself. It only took one good ride for me to get surf stoked! I would put my daughter in the Mom’s Day Out program at our church and head to the beach with my step-mom. Anytime I could steal a few hours away, I would drive to New Smyrna Beach, rent a board and surf for a couple of hours. Eventually, I received my own used surfboard.
Almost fearlessly, I would head to the beach with or without someone with me. I always surfed in front of a lifeguard or in a group of surfers for safety. I looked like a beginner for about ten years. Didn’t I say something earlier about clumsy…yeah, that’s me.
Surfing is where I feel the most like myself. There’s peace on the water and I can’t help but feel the presence of God when I’m sitting on my board. I am humbled and grateful for my time on the ocean waves. Although this is a big part of my life, it’s not all of it.
This blog is about the real life of a modern woman/surfer grounded in the middle of the sunshine state. I get to the beach when I can but the reality is, when I’m not on the water…life continues. I find it just as hard as the next person to
There are many times when I’m completely spent, work too much and forget my priorities. But work-life balance is possible and we can find it together. I usually go to a happy place, whether it’s surfing, painting, working out or hanging with family or friends.
If all you can find on a weekend is 4 hours to yourself, grab it, find your board and head the beach. After all…Mom’s surf too.